The stay in Pension Casa Apilladeira was super. We left with a filling breakfast and excitement for the day ahead. Even though the skies were overcast and the rains were never far off, I left the rain gear off to start. I was eager to get to Betanzos – a town rich in medieval history.
We didn’t leave as early as the day prior but early enough to see the sun rise. As soon as you leave the town square, you are faced with a sharp incline and it is uphill for the next half an hour or so. But it is not as bad as it it sounds. We both took our time and after every few minutes, we stopped and enjoyed the views of the bay.
It was good to use the views as motivation to keep moving. The climb got the blood pumping. I enjoyed today’s walk because the route took us along more rural areas and grassy paths than along roads. The Camino took us inland along a golf course at this stage which was pretty random!
We arrived in Mino after a few hours and had our usual 2nd breakfast. On entering the cafe, we noticed the owner and three other people sipping away on their drinks. Every single one of them welcomed us. That peaked me up! The owner was delighted to see us and wished us a Buen Camino as we marched on.
Leaving Mino, we felt raindrops on our rain jackets. I didn’t want to put the rain bottoms on just yet, although Ray had them on from the start! The Camino brings you back to the coast after Mino for a while with rolling hills.
Horreos are ever present throughout Galicia and today was no exception. This was one of the more well maintained ones I had seen.
Downhill again after Mino, the Camino brings you right out to sea level. And the rain gets heavy. But we have signs to give us that extra lift.
We pass through A Ponte do Porco and we move away from the sea again. We meet a giant overhead by-pass above us that I assume is taking travellers to A Coruna. That would be us the following day, I thought. But moving away from the sea means you start to climb and this was certainly the case as we climbed a set of stairs to the main road and again back to safety on a forest path.
Some of the artwork we saw underneath this by-pass, made me smile. Whether they are classed as graffiti or artwork, I will let you decide but it brightened up the Camino path.
We met more pilgrims today than yesterday. Pilgrims from Denmark and Germany. It was great to walk and talk to one German pilgrim from Munich. I found more solo pilgrims today who wanted to be by themselves and that is entirely fine. The three of us walked the last 5 km into Betanzos together and to be honest I had a new lease of life. I cherish the company of strangers on the Camino so walking these quieter routes is a challenge for me.
Arriving into Betanzos after midday was great and unexpected, considering the weather. We were enjoying the chat. We walked in to find 5 people queuing outside the municipal albergue. Our friend from Germany was the 6th pilgrim and at that stage, the albergue was completo. Before we left Ireland we knew that there would be limited beds there, so I booked ahead. It’s good to have a back-up plan!
Tomorrow we leave the Ferrol leg and take a trip around A Coruna.